Last Updated on 27 December 2025 by Vanessa
Portovenere is a picturesque little town with a charming small port in the Ligurian region in the northwest of Italy. It’s part of what is often referred to as the Gulf of Poets, because it was the favorite destination of such writers as Lord Byron, Percy Bysshe Shelley, D.H. Lawrence, George Sand, Henry Miller, and Virginia Woolf.
Just like the nearby Cinque Terre, the houses of Porto Venere are a colorful mix of pinks, yellows, and blues. It’s a joy to explore the small alleyways where the locals live.
Many of the inhabitants of Portovenere have cats. They treat them really well, unlike in many other towns in Italy where cats are often neglected.
But in Portovenere, no matter which alley you turn into, there’s almost always a happy cat around the corner to greet you.
Portovenere, Italy: exploring the Gulf of Poets (and cats)
The Gulf of Poets
Portovenere holds a significant place in literary history. It was the favorite destination for writers such as Lord Byron, Percy Bysshe Shelley, D.H. Lawrence, George Sand, Henry Miller, and Virginia Woolf.
Lord Byron supposedly lived in a cave overlooking the water in Portovenere. Today, you can still visit the famous Byron cave by boat.
Linked to Byron’s time in Portovenere is the story of his friendship with Percy Bysshe Shelley, another prominent English poet. The bond between these two literary giants was so strong that Byron would often swim 7.5 kilometers (4.6 miles) to visit Shelley and his wife, Mary Shelley, near Lerici. The shimmering waters of the Ligurian Sea became the backdrop for their intellectual exchanges and discussions of art, literature, and philosophy.
The Gulf of Poets has inspired more than just Byron and Shelley. Writers and thinkers from across Europe found refuge and creativity in this stunning region. D.H. Lawrence, the famous English author, was captivated by its rugged landscapes and seascapes, which stirred his imagination. George Sand, the French writer, fell for the town’s charm and wove its atmosphere into her tales of romance and adventure.
Henry Miller, the American novelist, and Virginia Woolf, the English modernist, were also drawn to the ethereal beauty of Portovenere. They wandered its winding streets, soaking in the colors and timeless charm that fueled their creativity.
Today, you can stroll the same paths and take in the same coastal views to feel a connection to that literary past. The presence of these writers still lingers. It mixes with Portovenere’s natural beauty to create a quiet, inspiring atmosphere.
The Gulf of Cats
I call Portovenere the “Gulf of Cats” because of how many felines roam its streets and squares. It perfectly sums up how intertwined the cats are with daily life here.
Here’s where you’re most likely to spot them during your visit to Portovenere…
Portovenere’s Old Town
The Old Town of Portovenere is full of character, with narrow streets, stone facades, and quaint alleys at every turn.
Two landmarks stand out.
The Church of St. Peter sits on a rocky point, with a detailed facade and a grand interior that reflect the town’s history.
Built in the 13th century on the site of an earlier 5th-century church, it combines Gothic and Romanesque elements and offers a stunning view of the sea from its terrace. Its black-and-white striped exterior, typical of Ligurian Gothic architecture, makes it one of Portovenere’s most recognizable landmarks.
Then there’s Doria Castle, which perches on a cliff above the town, offering sweeping views of Portovenere and the Ligurian coast while showing its strategic importance from centuries past. It was constructed in the 12th century and later expanded in the 15th century.
But the Old Town is mainly about the people who live here.
The town covers 2.5 square kilometers and has around 3,500 residents, many living in the mostly residential Old Town. The population leans older, but locals are friendly, and many have pets.
On Via A. Colonna 13, you can meet Frida, a one-year-old white cat who adores visitors. She comes out at night, walking along a leash attached to a cable along the street. She’s deaf, so she can get into trouble if she slips free, but she loves attention from tourists, and it’s hard not to fall for her.
Holiday home on Via Vittoria 12
Another “regular” of the Old Town is the tabby that guards an AirBnB situated on Via Vittoria 12 (this was my temporary residence in Portovenere).
She’s constantly outside, sleeping on the cushions next to the front door or next to the many plants that adorn the porch.
Not a single tourist passes by without giving this cat a good ruffle.
Shops
Even the shops have well-fed cats of their own. Some curl up on window sills, while others perch on shelves, keeping a casual eye on everyone who walks by.
Trattoria Tre Torri
The only cat in Portovenere that seems less fortunate is an older white cat that often stops by Trattoria Tre Torri, hoping for a scrap from generous visitors. Its coat is worn and weathered, and its eyes reflect a long life with its share of hardships. Yet, he’s a total sweetheart.
Are these cats protected?
Yes. Cats in Italy are protected by law.
The main law that provides protection for animals in Italy is the “Codice della Strada” (Highway Code) and the “Legge Quadro n. 281/1991” (Framework Law No. 281/1991). These laws outline regulations to ensure the welfare and protection of animals, including domestic cats.
Additionally, there are regional and local regulations that vary across different municipalities in Italy. These laws aim to prevent cruelty, mistreatment, and abandonment of animals, including cats, and impose penalties for those who violate these regulations.
How to get to Portovenere?
Getting to Portovenere is a bit of a challenge, but the long journey is well-worth it.
By public transport
- The closest international airport to Portovenere is the Pisa International Airport (Galileo Galilei Airport).
- From the airport, you can take a train or a bus to the nearest train station to Portovenere: La Spezia Centrale, which is well-connected to major Italian cities.
- Once you arrive at La Spezia Centrale, you still have to take the bus or ferry to Portovenere. The bus journey takes approximately 30 minutes, while the ferry ride provides a scenic experience along the coast.
By car
If you prefer driving, you can also reach Portovenere by car.
The town is accessible via the A12 highway. Please note that parking in Portovenere can be limited, especially during peak tourist seasons. Check for available parking areas or consider using public transportation.
Once you arrive in Portovenere, you can explore the town on foot.
The historic center is easiest to explore on foot, thanks to its narrow, pedestrian-friendly streets. The town’s compact size makes it simple to wander its winding alleys—and spot cats along the way.
Is Portovenere a good base for Cinque Terre?
Portovenere is an ideal base if you want to explore the Cinque Terre region, because it’s right next to it.
By choosing Portovenere as your residence, you can easily access these picturesque towns via regular ferry services (four to six departures per day) that operate along the Ligurian coast.
Here’s a glimpse of the Cinque Terre towns and their connection to Portovenere:
- Riomaggiore: Riomaggiore is only 30 minutes away by ferry. Just like Portovenere, it’s defined by its colorful houses that tumble directly toward the harbor. Narrow streets wind between tiny shops and cafés, creating a sense of intimacy and everyday life.
- Manarola: This was my personal favorite of the Cinque Terre villages. Manarola is quite small and has a main street that snakes along the hillside. There are many cats here, too.
- Corniglia: Unlike the other Cinque Terre villages, Corniglia is perched on a cliff, so it doesn’t have a direct ferry connection. However, you can reach it by taking a short train ride from any of the neighboring villages, including Monterosso or Vernazza.
- Vernazza: Vernazza centers on a tiny harbor framed by pastel buildings and the crumbling watchtower. Boats come and go (often with cats in them) while locals gather at the waterfront, shaping the village rhythm around the water.
- Monterosso al Mare: Monterosso al Mare spreads along the shore, with sand giving space to larger buildings and a mix of old and new streets. Its old town rises behind the beach. Here, you have narrow alleys with small shops and cafés.
Photos: Vanessa Morgan & Eric Valette (photos 3, 4, 7, 8)
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