Last Updated on 23 June 2025 by Vanessa
If you’ve already visited the Colosseum, eaten your body weight in gelato, and tossed a coin in the Trevi Fountain, I’ve got a spot for you that’s off the beaten path but totally worth the detour. The Rome Protestant Cemetery (or in Italian, Cimitero Acattolico di Roma) is peaceful, historic, and most importantly… full of cats.
Whether you’re a history nerd, a poetry fan, or just love a purring fluffball in a sunbeam (guilty), this guide will show you why this cemetery needs to be on your Rome itinerary.
The Rome Protestant Cemetery is home to more cats than tourists – here’s why
A quick history
Tucked behind the Pyramid of Cestius in the quiet Testaccio neighborhood, the Rome Protestant Cemetery has been around since the early 1700s. Back then, non-Catholics weren’t allowed to be buried in Catholic graveyards. So the city created this sacred spot for foreigners — Protestants, Jews, Orthodox Christians, and others.
But it’s not just a patch of old tombstones. It’s a leafy, peaceful haven for writers, philosophers, and artists from all over the world. Over the years, it became a symbol of creative souls finding their forever peace in the Eternal City.
And then the cats moved in. Or maybe they were always there? Either way, they’ve made this their territory, and they add all the magic.
Famous graves
The Rome Protestant Cemetery is the resting place for some literary heavyweights. While you’re walking the shady paths, keep an eye out (and a camera ready) for these graves. And don’t be surprised if a tabby decides to supervise your tour.
John Keats
The English poet died young — just 25 — and his grave reads, “Here lies one whose name was writ in water.” His tomb is simple and often visited by poetry lovers. Cats are almost always guarding his grave (such as in the picture above).
Pssst… Keats: Poetry Published In 1820 is currently free for Kindle. Find it here.
Percy Bysshe Shelley
A friend of Keats and a big deal in the Romantic poetry world, Shelley’s grave isn’t far away. His epitaph? A line from Shakespeare’s The Tempest: “Nothing of him that doth fade, but doth suffer a sea-change into something rich and strange.” And yes, there’s often a cat lounging nearby like it owns the place (because it probably does).
Antonio Gramsci
If you’re into politics or philosophy, you’ll recognize this name. Gramsci was a Marxist thinker and journalist, and his grave attracts admirers of his work — plus the occasional purring cat curling up on the nearby grass.
August von Goethe
Son of the Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. He spent a lot of time in Italy, particularly in Rome, where he was engaged in diplomatic work.
These are just a few of the cemetery’s well-known “tenants,” but part of the joy of wandering here is discovering stories behind the lesser-known graves — and petting a cat or two along the way.
The cats of the Rome Protestant Cemetery
Even if history and poetry aren’t your thing, the cats alone are reason enough to visit.
Between 30 and 50 strays live here, and they seem to know they’re guarding something special. Some nap on headstones. Others stretch out along stone paths or keep a close eye on visitors from shaded corners. Occasionally, one might even follow you — not for food, just for the company.
Locals say the cats were originally brought in to handle rodents, but over time they became part of the charm. Now, they’re the unofficial guardians of the dead, and some visitors come just to see them.
Why do so many cats live at the Rome Protestant Cemetery?
Because over the years, the cemetery has become a safe, quiet haven for stray and abandoned cats in the city. Here’s the full story:
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Shelter and tranquility: The Protestant Cemetery is peaceful, shady, and enclosed — a perfect environment for cats seeking safety from the busy streets of Rome.
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Human compassion: Local volunteers and caretakers began feeding and caring for the cats decades ago. What started informally became a regular, organized effort — including feeding stations, spaying/neutering, and medical attention.
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A semi-official sanctuary: Today, the cats are the unofficial but well-known residents of the cemetery. Both locals and tourists visit just to see the cats.
Who takes care of these cats?
Behind the scenes, a small team of volunteers — many connected to the Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary — look after the feline colony. These heroes feed, vaccinate, and spay/neuter the cats, ensuring they’re healthy and happy.
These cemetery cats are part of a broader effort across Rome to care for its massive stray cat population. Torre Argentina is one of the oldest shelters in the city, and it’s not far from the cemetery. If you’re feeling inspired after your visit, you can even stop by and support their work.
Planning your visit to the Rome Protestant Cemetery
Address
Cimitero Acattolico di Roma
Via Caio Cestio 6, 00153 Rome, Italy
Opening hours
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Monday–Saturday: 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM
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Sundays and public holidays: 9:00 AM – 1:00 PM
Dress code
This is a sacred place, so dress modestly. Think comfortable pants, skirts, and tops with sleeves.
Respectful attire = good karma (and better cat vibes).
How to get there?
By metro + bus:
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Take Metro Line B to Piramide station
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Catch Bus 83 toward “Dei Capasso”
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Get off at the “Cimitero Acattolico” stop — it’s right in front of the entrance
By car:
Navigate to Via Caio Cestio 6. The entrance is near the Pyramid of Cestius and Porta San Paolo.
What else to do nearby?
Testaccio is one of Rome’s coolest, most authentic neighborhoods. After you pay your respects (and get your fill of feline photo ops), check out:
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Pyramid of Cestius: Literally next door — an ancient Egyptian-style pyramid in the middle of Rome. Wild.
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Testaccio Market: Get lunch here. Grab a panino or some fresh Roman street food and people-watch.
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Aventine Hill: Beautiful views, gardens, and that famous keyhole where you can peek at St. Peter’s Basilica.
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Circus Maximus: A quick stroll away. Picture chariots racing while cats nap in the sun.
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Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary: If you can’t get enough of Rome’s cats, this spot is a must. It’s home to hundreds of rescued felines — and a super inspiring place to visit.
Loved the Rome Protestant Cemetery?
If you loved these cats of the Rome Protestant Cemetery, please share this article with fellow cat lovers. They need to know about this place.
By the way, have you ever visited Campo Verano Cemetery in Rome? This one has even more cats!
I’d love to hear about your experiences at these famous cemeteries! Drop a comment if you’ve been.
Cat pictures by Wim Castermans
English version / version française
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