Last Updated on 25 May 2025 by Vanessa
Today we are heading to the scenic port and winding old town streets of Rovinj, on the Adriatic coast of Croatia. But this isn’t just any walk through cobbled alleys and sunlit squares. We’re in search of the town’s quiet little stars: its cats. From sleepy sunbathers on stone steps to curious companions near the harbor, Rovinj’s feline residents add charm to every corner. Let’s see where they lead us.
A day in Rovinj – Cat spotting near the port and the old town
Where is Rovinj in Croatia?
Rovinj is an idyllic town on the western coast of Croatia’s Istrian Peninsula. It sits right along the Adriatic Sea, about 38 kilometers (24 miles) north of Pula, the largest city in Istria.
Its seaside location makes it a popular destination for tourists who love the mix of fishing village charm and stunning coastal scenery.
A morning by the port
If you want to experience the heart of this coastal gem, start by the port.
Having learned that Rovinj is a lively fishing port, I head out at 7 a.m. to catch the boats returning with their fresh catch.
In Rovinj, early mornings are the best time to witness the rhythm of the fishing life. The town begins to stir, and the port buzzes with quiet energy.
The fishermen are already hard at work, getting ready for the day. Two fishermen unload a small batch of sea bass. A wary feline customer awaits her share of the catch, casting cautious glances around for potential competition from other cats and seagulls.
A calm and patient calico cat also stands nearby, awaiting her turn. Very nice manners for a feral cat.
Walking back toward the parking lot, the magnitude of Rovinj’s fishing industry comes into view.
Three large fishing boats are busy loading crates of sardines onto a truck bound for Italy. A worker in bright orange waders—whom I started calling “Mr. Orange Waders”—packed the fish into styrofoam trays filled with ice. These sardines, carefully handled and efficiently packed, are part of Croatia’s growing seafood exports.
By midday, that morning’s catch makes its way onto plates at local restaurants. Fresh fish and shellfish fill the menus, offering visitors a true taste of the Adriatic.
Rovinj Old Town
Rovinj’s charm goes far beyond its fishing traditions. A walk through its narrow, winding streets reveals layers of history and striking architecture at every turn.
The town’s roots go back to the medieval era, and from 1283 to 1797, it was part of the Republic of Venice. During that time, Rovinj was fortified with two rows of defensive walls and three town gates—remnants of which still stand today. Near the pier, you’ll find Balbi’s Arch, an old town gate built in 1680, as well as a late-Renaissance clock tower. Rovinj was officially granted its city statutes in 1531.
Over the centuries, the town has seen many shifts in power. It remained under Austrian rule until World War I, then became part of Italy from 1918 to 1947. After World War II, Rovinj joined Yugoslavia, eventually becoming part of modern-day Croatia. During the Italian era, many local Italians left the city, and historical accounts suggest that Croats were not always treated fairly under Italian rule. That difficult past may help explain why the town now feels so deeply and distinctly Croatian.
Each chapter in Rovinj’s complex history has left its mark—shaping a town that feels both timeless and resilient.
Rovinj by night
As the sun sets over the Adriatic, Rovinj transforms into a romantic wonderland. The light is sublime.
All the tiny boats are safely tucked in, and we head to the other side of the small peninsula of Rovinj (which used to be an island) to park outside the town and see the setting sun.
We wander home in the dark with Croatian folk songs being blasted from a boom-box nearby. This seems fitting for the end of an unparalleled and full day in what is becoming a favorite town.
Where to eat in Rovinj: La Puntalina & Agli Amici
La Puntalina
I have to mention the great restaurant we found on the waterfront: La Puntalina.
It was so popular that we had to wait a half hour to get seated on the balcony.
However, we didn’t mind the wait. The small staff was friendly and extremely busy… fun to watch.
I ordered mixed seafood grill, and that was just right. A few local cats lingered near the tables, quietly begging for scraps with their big eyes. We also talked a bit to a beautiful young couple from Ireland who were already fans of the place.
Address: La Puntalina, Ul. Sv. Križa 38, 52210, Rovinj, Croatia.
Agli Amici
If you want pizza, you have to go to Agli Amici, a bar/cafe perched on a slope with a few tables outside in the balmy air.
This square fascinates me as none of the houses are painted as they are in the rest of the town. It looks a little dilapidated but there is a modern tile slab that the children have made their playground. There are lots of young parents and lots of babies. It has a wonderful fresh-start feel to it despite the run down appearance.
My God ,this pizza is good here! The white is not all cheese; it’s mostly a white sauce (bechamel). This is a Slovenia-style pizza with bacon, peperoncini, salami, and mushrooms. It’s so good and so filling. I leave most of the crust, which is a disgusting habit, I know ….but otherwise, how does one get past the first two slices of a pizza?
Address: Agli Amici, Šetalište Vijeća Europe 1-2, 52210, Rovinj, Croatia.
Where to stay in Rovinj: Hotel Lone
“The hotel Lone sets new standards in tourist architecture and interior, not only in Croatia,” says the brochure. It’s true.
Kudos to the whole team of designers and architects, and to Maistra, the investor who took the risk of abandoning the old trodden pathways. This is the most exceptional modern hotel I’ve ever had the pleasure to stay in… although I have stayed in 5-star hotels of classical renown and a few contemporary hotels in Paris and London, which lack the scope and space needed to succeed in this way.
One of three indoor restaurants in the hotel opened its doors in 2011.
Our dinner here is of the buffet variety with many choices, including salads and starters, main courses (vegetarian or meat), cheese offerings, and desserts.
I hope that in the future, the Lone will offer a restaurant space for a top chef. This amazing hotel certainly warrants top caliber dining in a discreet setting within its walls.
The atmosphere is that of spaciousness: clean, clear spaces with wide hallways in the famous Slavonian oak to make one feel openness and light.
The arcs and angles of the many floors is a visual treat. The Transform Easy Chairs are from Moroso, Italy, and are exceedingly comfortable flopped up or down.
The basic design concept was to pull the outside into the interior. This was accomplished by lots of glass and mirrors as well as a wall of ferns and various trees and plantings in the main spaces.
I couldn’t resist wearing the terry-cloth robe that was furnished for guests.
The special fold up chairs are now only used in the Lone but will be available on the market at a later date.
Each part of the room is of extremely high design quality and standards. The lamps are specially designed for the Lone by Dekor of Zabok from oak veneer, just as the paneling of the room. The lamps have unusual elegance in both the off and on positions. This fabric backdrop for the beds is easily turned “off” for sleeping but affords a warm coziness …quite original and effective.
Address: Hotel Lone, Ul. Luje Adamovića 31, 52210, Rovinj, Croatia.
How to get to Rovinj?
From Venice
If you’re coming from Venice, you can take the ferry to Rovinj. The Venezia Lines ferry operates between Venice and Rovinj during the tourist season. They offer a scenic and unique way to reach Rovinj, and it drops you off directly in the port of Rovinj.
From Pula
From Pula Airport, take a shuttle bus or taxi to the main bus station (about 10–15 minutes). Buses to Rovinj run regularly from there, with companies like FlixBus, Arriva, and Autotrans. The ride takes 45 minutes to an hour and follows a scenic coastal route. You’ll arrive at the Rovinj Bus Station, just a short walk from the old town and harbor.
From Split
Take a bus from Split to Zadar (3.5–4.5 hours), then another from Zadar to Rijeka (2.5–3.5 hours). From Rijeka, catch a bus to Rovinj (1.5–2 hours). All stations are centrally located, and Rovinj’s bus station is a short walk from the old town and harbor.
Optional: On select days, you can take a scenic ferry from Rijeka to Pula instead, then continue to Rovinj by bus or taxi (about 30 minutes).
From Dubrovnik
Traveling from Dubrovnik to Rovinj takes time but is doable with a combination of buses or a flight. The fastest option is to fly from Dubrovnik to Pula (with a layover in Zagreb), then take a bus or taxi to Rovinj (about 30 minutes).
Alternatively, take a bus from Dubrovnik to Split (4.5–5 hours), then follow the Split–Zadar–Rijeka–Rovinj route. The full journey by bus can take 12–14 hours, so plan for an overnight stop if needed.
Conclusion: Is Rovinj worth visiting?
Absolutely. From sunrise at the harbor to sunset over the sea, Rovinj is full of quiet charm and simple joys. Whether it’s watching fishermen at work, sharing lunch with a few bold cats, or wandering through the cobbled streets of the old town, this little coastal gem has a way of making you slow down and take it all in. It’s easily one of my favorite places in Europe, and I’m already looking forward to coming back.
Mary M. Payne is a woman from California (Woodland Hills, Carmel, San Francisco) living in France. On her blog, she muses about life abroad and the places she traveled to, including Málaga, the Alhambra in Granada, St. Paul de Vence, New York, Chiang Mai, and the cat café of Nice. She has also recently started writing poetry and memoirs. Please join in with your comments.
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